Textiles EPR done the French way
Unsplash image of clothes on a line
The French system for Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for clothing and textiles is one of the most developed in the world.
It requires companies that produce, import, or sell clothing, household linens, and footwear (TLC: Textiles, Linge de Maison, Chaussures) to take responsibility for their products at end-of-life.
How the system works
1. Obligation to Register:
Any company placing ‘TLC’ products on the French market must register with an accredited Producer Responsibility Organisation (PRO) such as Refashion. This applies to brands, importers, and retailers.
2. Eco-contribution (or modulated fees):
Companies must pay an eco-contribution based on the volume and type of products they sell on the French market. The modulated fee is set per item and varies depending on factors like material composition and recyclability, and funds the collection, sorting, and recycling of used textiles and footwear.
Fee reductions are offered on products that meet certain criteria, including use of recycled fibres, durability and repairability, easier recyclability, environmentally responsible finishings and processes.
An obligated organisation may incur higher fees on products that are harder to recycle, contain materials that are not currently recyclable (e.g. elastane), contain toxic dyes or coatings or are non-durable, disposable or prone to premature disposal.
3. Reporting:
Companies must submit annual reports detailing the number of products sold and their material composition. They must disclose actions taken to improve product sustainability (e.g. using recycled fibres, designing for recyclability etc).
4. Collection and Recycling:
The French system supports a national network of collection points, including donation bins, retailers, and social enterprises. Collected items are sorted into categories: reuse, recycling (into insulation, industrial wipes, etc.), or energy recovery.
5. Targets and Circular Economy Incentives:
In France, companies are encouraged to eco-design products for durability, recyclability and to reduce the footprint of products. Refashion provides tools and resources for brands to assess their environmental impact and adopt circular economy practices, and there are financial incentives for using recycled materials and developing new recycling technologies (see below for more on financial incentives).
6. Transparency and Consumer Information:
Companies must provide clear labelling and information about recycling options for their products. The upcoming Digital Product Passport will require brands to include detailed data on product composition and sustainability.
Financial Incentives
To encourage obligated organisations to be innovative and to invest in improvement and development, Refashion provides financial support and bonuses.
Eco-Contribution bonuses:
Brands that incorporate recycled materials into their products receive discounts on their eco-contribution fees
Products made with a certain percentage of post-consumer recycled fibers benefit from reduced fees
R&D and Innovation grants:
Companies investing in new recycling technologies (e.g. chemical recycling, fibre-to-fibre innovations) can apply for funding
The Refashion Innovation Challenge provides grants for projects that improve textile recyclability and waste reduction
There is support for pilot projects focused on textile-to-textile recycling, biodegradability, and closed-loop systems
Sorting and recycling subsidies:
Companies working on advanced sorting and recycling infrastructure (such as AI-powered sorting systems) can receive financial assistance
This helps scale up operations that can process more textiles into high-value recycled materials
Extended financial support for collection and sorting:
Refashion funds social enterprises and charitable organizations that collect and sort used textiles
This creates an economic incentive for businesses to invest in sustainable end-of-life solutions
Key Takeaways
There is a lot that can be learned from France for the UK and the rest of Europe. Compliance requires registration, fee payments, and sustainability reporting. Brands receive financial rewards and can access lower fees for using recycled fibres and designing recyclable products, but are penalised through higher fees for more damaging or less durable products.
Innovation in sorting, recycling, and circular design is supported through grants and funding as well as through modulated fees. The system is evolving, with stricter regulations and more financial incentives to drive circular fashion in France, and with France pushing for more stringent rules via the EU.
For more information, please contact us